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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 7, 2017 8:49:54 GMT -7
The first photo is the outer part of the mold with body and clay . Then turned over so you can see mold with body and clay then clay removed and cleaned the best possible. Then sprayed with mold release then the inside is poored with silicone no photo yet ( i think i took that photo ) then the next step will be to peel the inside of mold out . Let me look for photos.
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 7, 2017 8:59:14 GMT -7
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 7, 2017 9:00:05 GMT -7
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 7, 2017 9:00:58 GMT -7
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Post by superstock on Mar 8, 2017 7:44:04 GMT -7
rocky..what mold release do you use?? superstock
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 8, 2017 9:06:55 GMT -7
Dont have the name with me will get it when i get home
Comes in a yellow spray can we get it from the renolds the smooth on store.
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 8, 2017 14:07:31 GMT -7
Release agent is called .. ease release 200. It is in yellow & black spray can. Made by release technologies and they are from Macungie, Pa. WWW.moldreleases.com.  |
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Post by superstock on Mar 9, 2017 8:13:27 GMT -7
are we ready to poor resin ?? superstock
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 9, 2017 12:05:16 GMT -7
I have done some test pours on new molds after i get caught up a little. I will get some photos going for you . Today i am at gregs building some benches so he can start working . To take some of the load off of me . Give me a couple days on top of all this i have about twenty molds that i have to get made for customers. Dont worry wont be long I am working as fast as possible.
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Post by superstock on Mar 10, 2017 7:54:30 GMT -7
ok rocky................superstock
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Post by coyotecrunch on Mar 11, 2017 14:52:49 GMT -7
Wowzers -this is definitely tough stuff. I like it, but man, tons of things to soak in!!!
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 12, 2017 8:38:33 GMT -7
At first it looks hard but it gets. Repetitious and you just start doing it by habit.
Its really not bad at all. The biggest problem is when you start the resin you have to be very quick so that it does not set before you are ready for it to.
A good way to practice is to slush cast were you mix stir pour several time in a row. Very quickly i have done it to were you almost cant tell it is done that way.
I call the being very good or very very very lucky....
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 23, 2017 17:43:58 GMT -7
Crewcab dodge body mold  Crewcab floor. Inner fenderwell .  Frame rails  Door panels . Dash.  Headlights. Steering wheel. Bumper clayed.  |
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Post by superstock on Mar 25, 2017 6:19:49 GMT -7
rocky..can I see the mold for the body, open mold??what silicone do you use?? smooth-on number?? number 2 mold looks ruff around the edges?? superstock
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 25, 2017 6:35:04 GMT -7
I'll show it when i get home apx 1/2 hr. You will always get the little feathers on the mold.you just sit there aboit 1 hr and carefully remove them w tweezers and try not to hurt the mold . Its the smooth on 30 ? I think again will post when i get home .
Also the feathers you see tend to be worse when you make molds from resin parts compared to the crisp line of a styrene part
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 25, 2017 7:17:02 GMT -7
 Mold star 30 is the high heat tolerate silicone. Greg found out a long time ago when they had gone to a club meeting and a guy left a resin body in his trunk. At the end of meeting they went to look at it and found a twisted warped blob instead of a nicely molded car body. That was when the search started to find something that could stand up to some heat. It is much worse of a problem here but it still gets hot in your trunk or attic of a lot of places. You need to read the msds of products so you know what the product will withstand. I know i mentioned the silicone that is so the molds hold up but im also talking about the resin to it happens with all the products. And think about how nice your parts turn out with a warped mold . The molds tend to sit alot so dont stack them or lay them on things that are not flat . I had to make a mold that came from a bad mold it took me almost a month to get the main shape back before i could do bodywork and make a new mold. There are alot of junk molds that have only been used a couple of times. From people letting them set the wrong way. |
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 25, 2017 7:18:35 GMT -7
Smooth on mold star silicone  |
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 25, 2017 7:20:24 GMT -7
There is part A and part B mix 1 to 1 by volume or by weight.
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Post by superstock on Mar 25, 2017 7:34:57 GMT -7
rocky...are you going to poor rest of body today?? superstock
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 25, 2017 8:20:37 GMT -7
I have been cleaning the out side mold and body and stiring the silicone then put it in small containers so that it's easyer to work with. After that i will probibly finish body mold .this is bigger than it looks i'll bet i have used over a 100.00 of silicone so far its like 180.00 for the kit and 90 % of it has gone into this truck. I sure hope they sell good. You never know . You also never know if the mold is good tell you make a part from it. I have made the molds heavy so they will last longer i hope.
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Post by superstock on Mar 25, 2017 15:25:27 GMT -7
rocky..i am stripping chrome off of parts for the ford f-650..chrome came off..what do I use for removing the clear under it or does it matter in casting of them?? superstock
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 25, 2017 16:49:23 GMT -7
Most of the time it does not matter but I use purple power if it does. It a Greas remover for auto parts apx 5.00 a gallon but it work very slow
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Post by superstock on Mar 26, 2017 7:34:31 GMT -7
rocky..is it ok to prime parts I will send you to be cast??it will be primed with an AUTOMOTIVE primer an sanded smooth..superstock
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 26, 2017 8:26:00 GMT -7
As long as it's a very thin coat. If you have to much buildup that is how the mold will show the part. If you are using it to fill and smooth then it's fine.
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Post by superstock on Mar 27, 2017 7:04:22 GMT -7
rocky...any update on the cab?? superstock
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 27, 2017 10:20:38 GMT -7
Yes i will post pics later dont have time for a few hours the mold have set up good and look good . I was able to do a small test pour on floor and inner fenderwells to get the small pieces of clay etc . So far lookong good . Will get more up later. Thanks
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 27, 2017 15:19:09 GMT -7
Here is # 2 from the new mold # 1 was very short o resin not good this is 80 ML that is alot of resin . Its not excessively thick just a lot of surface .now just have to get the bugs out.  |
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Post by superstock on Mar 27, 2017 16:26:08 GMT -7
rocky..betwoon 2 an 3 ozs., not bad, I figured 3ozs. superstock
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Post by Excrewchief on Mar 27, 2017 16:59:36 GMT -7
Thats double what most bodies take. Its not real bad . There is a lot of fine detailing that should have been fixed but i dont like to do on other peoples masters and since we used your body as that . The front drip rail pulled loose when i removed it from the mold. Ill fix it i always do but wanted you to know ill show a picture later . Right now i have to top off all my resin and silicone so i can keep the flow going .
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Post by superstock on Mar 28, 2017 6:55:10 GMT -7
rocky..did you get all the silicone molds made?? did not see them,only body,headlite buckets an steering wheel?? the hood from Charlie is on the way to me..should be here Friday..will send to you on Monday...superstock
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