Post by fmw on Apr 28, 2017 10:34:28 GMT -7
I bought a RepRap Guru printer from Amazon about a year ago. I have used it to produce small parts and a body conversion set for a Corvette XP-700-like model. I have used to parts to produce a finished model, which I suppose is like making a master without actually producing a mold. The results can be seen at:
public.fotki.com/FMW/xp-616/
Parts can be seen at:
public.fotki.com/FMW/experiments/3d-printing/
My entire rig cost around $500, including two kinds of filament, an Ikea table with adjustable legs for leveling, and a temperature senor gun. I chose the RepRap Guru because at the time it was the best rated DIY kit with a large (8" x 8") heated bed that did not require additional components. The heated bed is required if you want to use anything but PLA filament. PLA is easy to print and biodegradable. It's solvents, however, are mega-toxic. I prefer ABS.
Low cost 3D printers essentially construct models out of 0.4 mm (0.015") plastic thread squashed down to 0.1, 0.2, or 0.3mm, or not squashed at 0.4mm. This limits the size of your model detail. The slicing function that converts a 3D model to printable format also makes approximations based on your nozel diameter and layer thickness. Some digital artifacting occurs. These facts result in a surface that is at best rippled, and at worst has some strange irregularities. This in turn requires that the printed part have some sort of surfacing process to produce a finishable master/model. I have seen articles about using acetone to smooth ABS plastic by brushing or fuming (fuming flamible toxic solvent - what could go wrong?) but have not achieved very good results myself. The XP-616 was surfaced with Apoxie putty and achieved acceptable results.
I think that's about it for an intro. If anyone is interested enough, I can go into detail on general or specific topics.
Note that RepRap Guru, while still available via Amazon, also has their own store at:
reprapguru.com/
FMW
public.fotki.com/FMW/xp-616/
Parts can be seen at:
public.fotki.com/FMW/experiments/3d-printing/
My entire rig cost around $500, including two kinds of filament, an Ikea table with adjustable legs for leveling, and a temperature senor gun. I chose the RepRap Guru because at the time it was the best rated DIY kit with a large (8" x 8") heated bed that did not require additional components. The heated bed is required if you want to use anything but PLA filament. PLA is easy to print and biodegradable. It's solvents, however, are mega-toxic. I prefer ABS.
Low cost 3D printers essentially construct models out of 0.4 mm (0.015") plastic thread squashed down to 0.1, 0.2, or 0.3mm, or not squashed at 0.4mm. This limits the size of your model detail. The slicing function that converts a 3D model to printable format also makes approximations based on your nozel diameter and layer thickness. Some digital artifacting occurs. These facts result in a surface that is at best rippled, and at worst has some strange irregularities. This in turn requires that the printed part have some sort of surfacing process to produce a finishable master/model. I have seen articles about using acetone to smooth ABS plastic by brushing or fuming (fuming flamible toxic solvent - what could go wrong?) but have not achieved very good results myself. The XP-616 was surfaced with Apoxie putty and achieved acceptable results.
I think that's about it for an intro. If anyone is interested enough, I can go into detail on general or specific topics.
Note that RepRap Guru, while still available via Amazon, also has their own store at:
reprapguru.com/
FMW
